Throughout history, step cut diamonds have invoked feelings of power and royalty. But what exactly is it about this cut’s physical form that creates its signature strong, elegant look?
The magic of the step cut starts with the crown — to us, the chunkier the crown, the more desirable. The perceived loss of brilliance that you get from a step cut is compensated for when you have a juicy crown, giving it the appearance of scintillation and dance towards the top of the stone where it matters the most.
To maximize the play of light added by the substantial crown, the table is reduced, tightening the angles in the lower portion of the stone for increased light refraction. Old step cuts, especially Asscher cuts, often have more steps on the bottom, creating more facets for the light to bend and reflect off of.
True old cut stones have deep cut corners, adding character, balance, and more play of light. Because light retention is especially important to the sparkle of the step cut, we look for thinner girdles to avoid light leakage out the side. All of these factors combine for a striking “hall of mirrors” effect, creating the long flashing panels of light that give old step cuts their distinctive shine.