AGTA Announces Its 2024 Spectrum & Cutting Edge Award Winners

The 2024 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards, celebrating its 40th anniversary, captivated attendees with vibrant trends in natural-colored gemstones and natural and cultured pearls. The event this year especially showcased the exceptional beauty of Paraíba tourmaline and tsavorite garnet, along with a striking array of pink, purple, blue, and orange gems. Held from Oct. 31–Nov. 1, 2024, at the Omni Frisco Hotel at The Star in Dallas, the prestigious awards highlighted the latest innovations in gemstone and jewelry design.

Notable trends this year also included the ethereal glow of moonstones, the elegant allure of oval-shaped gems, and striking finished jewels featuring fantasy cuts and carved gemstones as the centerpiece of show-stopping pieces.

The AGTA Spectrum Awards entries were judged based on a combination of overall beauty, wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, and quality of gemstones and workmanship, as well as their potential to capture broad-based consumer appeal and generate buzz for natural-colored gemstones and natural and cultured pearls. Meanwhile, the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards celebrated excellence in the lapidary arts, recognizing craftsmanship in natural-colored gemstones, natural and cultured pearls, and carvings, pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with these beautiful materials.

“Every year, the quality of our entries continues to get better,” said AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. “We received nearly the exact same number of entries as last year—upwards of 375—with a category distribution similar to last year. Evening Wear garnered the most entries at 75, and Men’s Wear had 27 entries, which reflects a slight increase. We also have the new Engagement Ring category, and the 21 entries in it were just an explosion of vibrant color and far outweighed my expectations. We are thrilled to see artists’ colorful takes in an area that has traditionally been reserved for diamonds. We also saw a substantial number of first-time entrants. Every piece is a winner.”

 

Joseph Dardashti Ltd., represented by Joseph Dardashti and Sophia D. Karmel, claimed the Best of Show honor in the Spectrum Awards segment with their stunning “SOPHIA D En Tremblant Butterfly” brooch. This exquisite piece features 0.55 carats of emeralds, 3.02 carats of rubies, 0.65 carats of sapphires, and 7.55 carats of diamonds, all set in a luxurious combination of platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.

In addition to the Best of Show Award, the Spectrum Awards recognized several other categories, including Best Use of Color, Best Use of Pearl, and Best Single Entries. Awards were also given for first, second, and third places, along with honorable mentions in six categories: Bridal Wear, Business/Day Wear, Classical, Engagement Rings, Evening Wear, and Men’s Wear. Other honors included the Editor’s Choice Award and the Fashion Forward Honors, which celebrate exceptional use of colored gemstones and/or cultured pearls in artistic, trend-setting jewelry. Any design that qualifies for the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition is also eligible for Fashion Forward Honors.

Additionally, the Platinum Honors, sponsored by Platinum Guild International (PGI), highlighted outstanding use of platinum in jewelry featuring colored gemstones and/or natural and cultured pearls across the six Spectrum categories. PGI also presented two “Best of” awards: Best Use of Platinum and Color and Best Use of Platinum Crown.

This year also marked the debut of the Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Awards, sponsored by Allan Norville and the Norville family. These new honors were awarded to one female entrant in each of the six Spectrum categories, with all women who entered the AGTA Spectrum Awards eligible for consideration.

 

 

In the Cutting Edge category, John Dyer Gems secured the Best of Show award, as well as first place for North American Mined Gemstones, with a breathtaking 33-carat sapphire from Rock Creek, Mont., aptly named “The Montana Sun Sapphire.” This exceptional gem captivated judges with its size, brilliance, and craftsmanship.

In addition to the Best of Show Award, the Cutting Edge Awards recognized several other categories, including Best Single Entries and Editor’s Choice, as well as first, second, and third places, along with honorable mentions in eight categories: All Other Cut Gemstones, Carving, Classic Gemstones, Innovative Faceting, North American Mined Gemstones, Objects of Art, Pairs & Suites, and Phenomenal.

Judges this year included Jean Francois Bibet; Sherry Bender, The Goldsmith Ltd., Chicago; Susan Jacques, president and CEO of the Gemological Institute of America; and Suzy Landa, Suzy Landa Fine Jewelry, New York.

“The caliber of the entries continues to increase annually, and the expertise of the judges wows us,” said Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems and president of the AGTA Board of Directors. “I think everyone loved seeing the submissions in the new engagement ring category, as colored gems in bridal are a growing segment of the market. I think some of the trends this year included jewels that convert for wear in different ways, multi-, two-, and three-stone rings, interchangeable center stones, and more.”

Many of the winning pieces will be displayed during the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson from Feb. 3–9, 2025. The AGTA Spectrum Gala is the highlight of 2025 Gem Week festivities and will take place on Saturday, Feb. 8, 2025, in the recent addition to the Tucson Convention Center. For more information or tickets, visit AGTA.org.

Spectrum Award Winners

Best Use of Color

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.: Platinum ring featuring a 12.42-carat, emerald-cut bicolor tourmaline accented by 0.70 carats of spinel, 0.68 carats of demantoid garnets, and 0.41carats of diamonds.

Best Use of Pearl

Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC: 14-karat white gold “Helix” cufflinks featuring two pairs of Keshi pearls with blue overtones accented by 6.31 carats of black diamonds.

Best of Single Entries

Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, contributors:  Lauren Tuggle (co-designer and hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), and Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler): 18-karat rose and yellow gold and platinum “Whisper of the Ancestors” lapel pin featuring an 18.23-carat fantasy-cut sunstone accented by mixed 1.15 carats of teal tourmaline and 0.76 carats of diamonds.

Fashion Forward and Editor's Choice

Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc.: Titanium and 14-karat white gold “Cromatica” earrings featuring 20.66 carats of tanzanite and 23.62 carats of garnet accented by 1.26 carats of diamonds.

Best Use of Platinum and Color

Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry: Platinum “Blue Me Away” ring featuring a bezel-set cat’s-eye blue topaz cabochon totaling 13.59 carats, accented by 2.16 carats of ombré blue sapphires and 1.45 carats of diamonds.

Best Use of Platinum Crown

Marie Fellhauer, Holly Hawks Curations, LLC, contributor: Southern Diamond Jewelers (bench jeweler): Platinum “The Girl Can Fight” ring featuring a 32-carat morganite accented with 1.72 carats of pink and white diamonds.

Bridal Wear

1st Place

Christina Penuel, Mark Loren Designs: 14-karat yellow gold earrings featuring Yangtze pearls accented by 3.04 carats of sapphires 0.88 carats of amethyst.

2nd Place

Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry, a Larry Rice Commissioned piece: 18-karat white and yellow gold “Colorblind” earrings featuring 41.18 carats of tourmalines and rubellite accented by 1.99 carats of diamonds.

3rd Place

 

Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc.: Spector Gold, 18-karat yellow gold and 14-karat white gold “Olympia” cuff featuring a 76.82-carat Santa Maria aquamarine accented with 8.06 carats of diamonds and 10.63 carats of aquamarine.

Alfie Norville Women in Excellence

Janine Castro, Janine Castro Jewelry, contributors: Steven DeLaVega (center stone source) and Juan Negron (jeweler): Platinum ring featuring a 1.86-carat, trillion-cut spessartite garnet accented by 0.395 carats of diamonds.

Honorable Mention and Platinum Honors

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.: Platinum “MOONGLADE” ring featuring a 10.33-carat faceted moonstone accented by 0.46 carats of tourmaline and 0.33 carats of orange sapphires.

Business/Day Wear

1st Place and Platinum Honors

Maia Carlson, Weber Goldsmith Gallery, contributor: Brad Weber: Platinum “Mariana” ring featuring an 18.44-carat, concave-cut aquamarine accented by 1.55 carats of step-cut diamonds and 0.34 carats of pavé-set diamonds.

2nd Place

Wolfgang Vaatz, Wolfgang Vaatz: 18-karat gold sheet fused to sterling silver “Aspen Leaves Connecting to Earth After the Rain” cuff featuring 2.86 carats of bicolor sapphires accented by 0.665 carats of diamond melee.

3rd Place

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.: Platinum ring featuring a 12.42-carat, emerald-cut bicolor tourmaline accented by 0.70 carats of spinel, 0.68 carats of demantoid garnets, and 0.41carats of diamonds.

Alfie Norville Women in Excellence

Jutta Munsteiner, Somewhere In The Rainbow, contributor: Tom Munsteiner (cutter): 18-karat yellow and white gold “Whiskey & Stone” pendant featuring a 26.06-carat, triangle-cut citrine and an 83 x 30 mm agate accented by a 0.20-carat diamond.

Honorable Mention

 

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC: Platinum and ceramic ring featuring a 5.07-carat Mozambique Paraíba tourmaline accented by 0.18 carats of diamonds.

Honorable Mention

Dallas Prince, Dallas Prince Designs: 14-karat yellow gold “Meet Me at the Plaza” reversible bangle featuring 5.57 carats of bright pink sapphires and 5.87 carats of tsavorite garnets.

Honorable Mention

Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC: 14-karat white gold “Deuce” convertible ring featuring a 14.87 mm purple blue mabé pearl on one side and a 9.91-carat chalcedony cabochon on the other side accented by 2.147 carats of diamonds.

Classical

1st Place

Beatrix Laura Jessner, B & W Jewels, LLC: Platinum convertible ring or pendant featuring a 2.04-carat Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline accented by 3.99 carats of diamonds.

2nd Place

Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs: Platinum suite of ring, bracelet, and necklace with an interchangeable centerpiece featuring an 8.29-carat pink spinel accented by pink and colorless diamonds totaling 9.99 carats.

3rd Place

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.: Platinum bypass ring featuring a 5.00-carat Sri Lankan sapphire and a 4.45-carat tourmaline accented by 0.84 carat of sapphires, 1.08 carats of tourmaline, and 0.85 carat of diamonds.

Alfie Norville Women in Excellence

Mary van der Aa, Mary van der Aa Fine Jewels, contributor: Tucson Todd’s Gems (gemstone supplier): Platinum “LA FEMME SPINELLE” ring featuring a 5.97-carat red spinel accented by 1.00 carat of blue sapphires and 0.50 carat of diamonds.

Honorable Mention

Jutta Munsteiner, Munsteiner USA LLC: Platinum “Mantis” ring featuring a 23.25-carat tourmaline accented by 0.68 carat of diamonds.

Platinum Honors

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC, contributor: Cuprian & Co. (supplier): Platinum “Paraíba Perfection” pendant featuring a 3.84-carat Mozambique Paraíba tourmaline and a 7.06-carat Mozambique Paraíba tourmaline accented by 1.11 carats of alexandrites and diamonds.

Engagement Rings

1st Place

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc.: Platinum ring featuring a 10.08-carat tsavorite garnet accented by 0.60 carat of tsavorite garnets and 0.66 carat of diamonds.

2nd Place

Nikki Swift, Nicole Mera, LLC: Platinum and 18-karat rose gold “Sparkling Rosé” ring featuring a 2.05-carat, emerald-cut pink spinel accented by 0.35 carat of round pink sapphires and 1.38 carats of baguette diamonds.

3rd Place

Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC: Platinum “Hope Sapphire” ring featuring an 8.35-carat, no-heat Burmese blue sapphire accented by 1.01 carats of diamonds.

Alfie Norville Women in Excellence

Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC, contributor: Color Source Gems (sapphire supplier): Platinum bridal set featuring a 4.55-carat, vivid blue, pear-shaped sapphire accented by 1.75 carats of diamonds.

Honorable Mention

Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs: Platinum and 18-karat yellow gold ring featuring a 2.68-carat, pear-shaped tourmaline accented by 2.97 carats of tourmaline and 1.14 carats of diamonds.

Platinum Honors

Underwoods Design Team, Underwoods Fine Jewelers: Platinum ring featuring a 4.16-carat, round-shaped, blue sapphire accented by 1.26 carats of diamonds.

Evening Wear

1st Place

Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti, Ltd., Sophia D. Karmel (co-founder): Platinum and 18-karat yellow gold “SOPHIA D En Tremblant Butterfly” brooch featuring 0.55 carat of emeralds, 3.02 carats of rubies, 0.65 carat of sapphires, and 7.55 carats of diamonds.

2nd Place

Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc.: Titanium and 14-karat white gold “Cromatica” earrings featuring 20.66 carats of tanzanite and 23.62 carats of garnet accented by 1.26 carats of diamonds.

3rd Place

Phillip Dismuke, Jewelsmith, Inc.: 18-karat yellow gold ring featuring a 7.05-carat, green/blue, emerald-cut tourmaline accented by a 1.30-carat, red/orange, cut-corner, tapered-baguette fire opal and a 0.50-carat, round-brilliant, orange sapphire.

Honorable Mention

Raja Mehta, AG Gems: 18-karat yellow gold “Golden-Orchid” ring featuring a 3.71-carat, cushion-cut lilac sapphire accented by 0.94 carats of pear-shaped white diamonds, 2.28 carats of round-shaped white diamonds, and 0.35 carats of round-shaped fancy yellow diamonds.

Honorable Mention and Alife Norville Women in Excellence

Sonya Konstantinovsky, Sonya K.: 18-karat white gold ring featuring a 2.05-carat, no-heat, “vibrant” red ruby from Mozambique accented by 1.02 carats of marquise-cut diamonds and 2.73 carats of custom baguette-cut diamonds.

Platinum Honors

Marie Fellhauer, Holly Hawks Curations, LLC, contributor: Southern Diamond Jewelers (bench jeweler):  Platinum “The Girl Can Fight” ring featuring a 32.0-carat morganite accented with 1.72 carats of pink and white diamonds.

Men’s Wear

1st Place and Platinum Honors

Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry: Platinum “Blue Me Away” ring featuring a bezel-set cat’s-eye blue topaz cabochon totaling 13.59 carats, accented by 2.16 carats of ombré blue sapphires and 1.45 carats of diamonds.

2nd Place

Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, contributors:  Lauren Tuggle (co-designer and hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), and Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler): 18-karat rose and yellow gold and platinum “Whisper of the Ancestors” lapel pin featuring an 18.23-carat fantasy-cut sunstone accented by mixed 1.15 carats of teal tourmaline and 0.76 carats of diamonds.

3rd Place

Zoltan David, Somewhere In The Rainbow, contributor: Bruce Bridges (supplier and cutting): Black Knight steel and 24-karat and 18-karat yellow gold “Legend of Campbell Bridges” ring featuring a 4.90-carat, round-shaped, faceted tsavorite garnet accented by 0.96 carats of faceted tsavorite garnets.

Alfie Norville Women in Excellence

Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC, Tom Munsteiner (lapidary artist): 14K-karat white gold “Varden” cufflinks featuring fantasy-cut peridot totaling 11.75 carats and princess-cut peridot accented by 2.10 carats of diamonds.

Honorable Mention

Rodney Rahmani, Brilliant Stars: 18-karat rose and white gold ring featuring an 8.03-carat, unheated, fancy sapphire accented by 0.62 carats of round-shaped diamonds and 0.46 carats of princess-cut diamonds.

Honorable Mention

Dallas Prince, Dallas Prince Designs: 14-karat white gold “Sceptre” pin/brooch featuring a 5.15-carat, pear-shaped tanzanite accented by 0.40 carats of square-cut tsavorite garnets and 2.01 carats of round-shaped diamonds.

Best of Single Entries—Cutting Edge

Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers, LLC, contributors: Nicolai Medvedev (designer and fabricator) and Susan Helmich (gold work): “Blue Boy” intarsia box featuring a 22-karat gold carving of a stingray accented by Australian opal, Virgin Valley opal, Maw sit sit, Nevada turquoise, golden quartz, sugilite, malachite, dinosaur bone, diamonds, and 2.20 carats of tourmaline.

All photos courtesy of the AGTA and Jeff Mason Photography.